Cross member bushing install

December 28, Bugeye on a Budget , Installs. Leave a Reply Cancel reply Enter your comment here…. Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:. Email required Address never made public. Name required. Follow Following. Sign me up. Already have a WordPress. Log in now. Advertise Here. Click Here to Login Not yet a Member? Click Here to Register for Free! New Topic. Post Reply. New Poll. Ive seen it referd to as the batwing.

How are these bushings removed from the crossmember? I want to replace with new. By the way its a We used some wd for lub. Made a double wedge, much like a pickel fork. You can hammer it or weld shaft from a muffler chisel and use a burp gun. Come out fairly easily, leave bolts in to catch. I burned the last set out with a torch I did.. I had more trouble separating the bushings from the frame..

Axle stands under the rear hubs, blocks of wood, anything like that will allow it to be loaded up but leave room to get in and tighten things up. RacerTodd Veteran Member. When you lower the car to the ground, the axle sits at a certain angle to the body. You want to torque the bolt down with the axle at that angle so it doesn't bind up as the axle rotates up and down with bumps in the road. If you need to the car up in the air to access the bolt, here is how to get the axle at that angle.

Lower car to ground. Measure distance from center of rear wheel to fender lip. Let's say that measurement is 20". Note: I measure from the wheel center so, if needed, I can remove the wheel to get better access to the bolt. Put your jack under the rear shock and jack up the car until the tire is off the pavement and all the weight is on the jack. Optionally, remove the wheel. Measure the wheel center to fender lip distance.

Once it's at 20", the axle is at the same angle as when it was sitting on the ground. Reach under and tighten up the bolt. Thanks guys. I actually picked up my Bentley's and peered into it Said to measure center of wheel to fender arch. When going to torque you'd raise the beam up until it's at that measurement and then torque the bolt.

Sadly, installation of the new bushings was a complete failure. Broken car and I've lost all motivation Be sure to use the right tool s! Like, duh! Confirmed after talking with Bora Parts. The bushing tool that I have won't work with Cupra Rs. Now I'm wondering whether the bushing on the left side that has a cracked shell would still be viable. I'm thinking that that hard shell is just to provide a skin around the rubber so that when installed and when operating that the rubber isn't abraded on the metal.

Anyone know if that outer plastic really has all that much to do with structural integrity once the bushing is installed? Finally got it done. I popped out the cracked replacement bushing pretty easy, which is nice to know that if one has to do these again it'll be MUCH quicker and put in a new one: many thanks to Bora Parts for getting another set of bushings out to me so quickly.

To sum up, it's not all that bad of a job leaving the axle in the car can't see removing the axle being less work , and, be certain that if you have a special VAG tool that it is capable of working with your bushing- not all bushings are the same! Going to attempt this tonight. Bought Poly bushings to replace the OEM rubber ones. Poly is not recommended for these particular bushings.

The load that they take isn't conducive to the strength of Poly. I'd recommend the Cupra R instead. Joined Jun 20, Location Sterling, Massachusetts. I prefer to learn from someone else's mistakes. Lito, Let me know what surprises you identify from this. I have poly bushings in the back of the car already. I hope to soon actually install them in the axle. Lateral g load? There is a slight vertical load downward on the rear axle bushings due to the spring perch being slightly forward of the tire contact patch and creating a lever moment.

There is also the weight of the beam, but the total vertical force is almost certainly less than that on the front strut bushing. The car is supported by the springs, not the rear axle bushings. Last edited: Jun 17, Cupra R? Are they firmer or? I haven't done the bushing install. I was hoping that you'd do yours and advise me. The factory method is to remove one bushing's through bolt and jack up the opposite rear wheel. This pivots the unbolted bushing down and clear of the attaching bracket to permit access to the bushing.

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But now I'm really off topic of rear beam mounts When I installed the new rear bushings in the Golf I dropped the axle and removed it from under the car. It was much easier to get to the oil filled bushings to cut the rubber so you can cut the metal sleeve with a hacksaw.